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Cat-a-Tonic

Noofies' Practical Health Information

Caveat: I am neither a veterinarian nor vet tech.
This information is not intended to take the place of professional veterinary care!

With years of cat-ownership and a seemingly endless stream of strays and fosters passing through, I've accumulated a lot of practical tips for diagnosing and treating cats, and a healthy skepticism of some veterinary practices. I'd like to share these with you here.

Using Bach Flower Essences' Rescue Remedy

Rescue Remedy is a mixture of Bach Flower Essences, the only blend in their inventory. (There's more information on RR at the link on the previous page.) It's a homeopathic stress-reliever, originally formulated for humans undergoing stress, but works very well with cats and kittens. It's a very dilute mixture, and is safe to use on the cats in whatever dosage is necessary to resolve the problem. It's available at most major health food stores in the homeopathic section. It comes with it's own dropper, and the dropper only holds 4 drops - the recommended dosage.

I use it in any situation where my cats are experiencing stress: ferals, immediately upon trapping, vet visits, introduction of a new cat to the household, timidity, aggressiveness, traveling, company, just about any situation you can imagine. I use it differently for crisis situations than I do for chronic conditions. Here's how:

Crisis

Rescue Remedy can be administered orally, at full strength. The cat doesn't even have to swallow it, it will be absorbed by the mucus membranes like lips, gums, and tongue. It can also be rubbed into the ear tips. One dose, followed by a second in a few minutes if necessary, usually brings about a marked difference. Don't worry about overdosing - it can't be done.

Chronic or Long-Term Situations

Here, I administer the Rescue Remedy in a little food. The gravy from canned food works well (thanks, Tally, for the tip!) - twice a day, pour a little of the gravy in a dish and add 4-8 drops of Rescue Remedy. If you don't feed canned food, or if you don't feed canned twice a day, you can use a little human baby food. I use about a teaspoon of Gerber Stage 1 lamb or veal, and put the Rescue Remedy in there. The cats think it's a treat. Within a few days you should notice a change in behavior, and within a couple of weeks you should see a marked difference.

Rescue Remedy does not have a narcotic or "downer" effect on your cat. It is very subtle, and just blunts the sharp edge of fear or stress. If you're curious about what it will feel like for the cat, you can use it yourself, first. The recommended dosage is 4 drops per 1/4 cup of water. I use it all the time when 8 people are screaming "I need it right now!" at me and it helps me keep my cool.

If you have any questions, please feel free to e-mail me!

Soak for Infected Claws or Paws

First, this should be seen by your vet. Oral antibiotics are likely to be needed; soaking is merely a tool to help the area heal. Use warm water and add Betadine (or generic povidone iodine solution) until it's the color of tea. Pour into flat container (I use either a small square cake pan or a tupperware sandwich container). Soak the affected paw 2-3 times a day for 5-10 minutes, and pat dry with a paper towel. This will help kill bacteria and promote healing.

Vaccinations

Many vets routinely recommend vaccinations for FVRCP (commonly called the "distemper vaccination"), Rabies, and FeLV (Feline Leukemia Virus). There is an ongoing discussion among vets and cat owners about the merits and drawbacks of each of these vaccines and it is not my intention here to delve deeply into these issues. I merely want to share with you the decisions I've made regarding vaccinations, and my reasons for doing so.

First, my understanding of the transmissibility of the diseases the vaccinations are intended to protect against. "Distemper" is easily transmissible. You can carry it into your house on your shoes if you stepped in urine from an infected cat. You can carry it on your clothing and your hands. Indoor or outdoor cat, the FVRCP vaccination is a necessary evil. The initial shot should be given at 6-9 weeks, and a follow-up booster 3 weeks later. You will need to have your cat boostered at 1 year. But current research into FVRCP immunity has shown that immunity can last as long as 4 years or longer, so many vets recommend boostering only every three years after the 1 year booster. Some current thinking goes as far as saying that the kitten-series FVRCP vaccination provides immunity for life; I recently asked the very traditional vet I use for routine stuff about that and his reply was "Yeah, that distemper vaccine 'takes' really well." The Zoo gets the kitten series FVRCP vaccines and that's it.

Rabies is only transmissible by a bite from an infected animal. Many states require rabies vaccinations. If your cat goes outdoors at all, you should vaccinate against rabies. If your cat is strictly an indoor cat and your state does not require rabies vaccination, then the decision to vaccinate or not rests with you. There's a difference of opinion on this, but my cats are all indoor cats and I do not vaccinate against rabies.

There's been a heated debate lately over vaccinating against Feline Leukemia Virus. It's contagious, but there are debates over what kind of contact constitutes vulnerability. There are also arguments as to the effectiveness of the vaccine. The best information I can find about this is that it is transmitted through close animal-to-animal contact, and by contact with recently contaminated surfaces. My understanding is that it is not a particularly long-lived virus on surfaces, but contact during its live stage can lead to infection. It is also dependent on the general physical condition of a cat - healthy cats with strong immune systems are at less risk of contracting FeLV than young or geriatric cats, or cats in poor health. The vaccine is only about 75% effective, and does not always protect against contracting FeLV. Outdoor cats should be vaccinated, but I feel the risk of post-vaccination site sarcoma outweighs the possible benefits for indoor-only cats. Therefore, I do not vaccinate against Feline Leukemia.

Where should the vaccinations be given? Current protocol is that the FVRCP vaccinations be given in the right front shoulder, as low as possible to the elbow. Rabies should be given in the right rear leg, again, as low as possible to the elbow. And FeLV vaccinations should be given in the left rear leg, as low as possible to the elbow. The reason for this is that any vaccination could cause cancer at the site of the vaccination (although leukemia is the biggest risk), and if vaccinations are given lower on the leg, the animal's life can be saved by amputating the affected limb.

A couple other tips regarding vaccinations - any vaccination can cause a small, temporary lump at the vaccination site. A lump that continues to increase or one that has not gone away in 2 weeks should be examined. I never give more than one vaccination at a time. One shot per visit, period. It's safer not to overwhelm your cat's system with all those powerful vaccinations at one time. Your cat may be a little quieter for 24-48 hours after vaccination - just keep a close eye and if the lethargy seems excessive, or your cat exhibits any other reaction than a little sleepiness, it's important that you return to the vet ASAP.

Do some research before you take your cat in for vaccinations and you will be able to make an informed choice about which vaccinations to give your cat, and when you want to give them. As it stands right now, I vaccinate my indoor-only cats for FVRCP only, and at 3-year intervals after 1 year of age.

When Should I See the Vet?

Should my cat see the vet immediately or can I wait until tomorrow? Is it serious enough that the cat needs to be seen tomorrow, or is Monday OK? Does my vet need to see my cat, or can I treat the problem at home? Here's a chart that will help you decide:


Symptom

ASAP

Next Day

2-3
Days

Home Care

Bites, cuts – mild

 

X

 

 

Bites, cuts – severe

X

 

 

 

Blood in urine, straining to urinate

X

 

 

 

Blood in vomit, no trauma

 

X

 

 

Blood in vomit, trauma

X

 

 

 

Broken bones

X

 

 

 

Broken tail

 

X

 

 

Change in eating, sleeping habits – gradual

 

 

X

 

Change in eating, sleeping habits – radical

 

X

 

 

Cold extremities

X

 

 

 

Constipated, straining to defecate

 

X

 

 

Cuts, open wounds

X

 

 

 

Diarrhea combined with vomiting

 

X

 

 

Diarrhea with blood

 

X

 

 

Diarrhea, constant for 2 days or more

X

 

 

 

Diarrhea, no fever or other symptoms

 

 

 

X

Drinking a lot of water

 

 

X

 

Eating a lot, losing weight

 

 

X

 

Failure to use litterbox – new behavior

 

X

 

 

Fever

 

X

 

 

Fleas

 

 

 

X

Head trauma

X

 

 

 

Lack of appetite, hasn’t eaten in 48 hours

X

 

 

 

Lack of appetite, occasional

 

 

 

X

Lack of appetite, regular

 

 

X

 

Lethargy, gums are bubble-gum pink

 

 

 

X

Lethargy, gums are deep pink

X

 

 

 

Lethargy, gums are pale pink

X

 

 

 

Lumps, bumps

 

 

X

 

Paralysis

X

 

 

 

Small, "dried rice" around anus

 

 

X

 

Sneezing, runny nose and eyes, clear discharge

 

 

 

X

Sneezing, runny nose and eyes, yellow/green discharge

 

X

 

 

Spraying (males) – time to neuter

 

 

X

 

Swelling

 

X

 

 

Vomiting, continuous

X

 

 

 

Vomiting, hairballs

 

 

 

X

Vomiting, occasional

 

 

 

X

Vomiting, regular occurrence

 

 

X

 

Worms in stool or vomit

 

X

 

 

Yowling with butt in the air (females) – time to spay

 

 

X

 

E-mail me!


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